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Der erste Eindruck
Description of the aquarium:
Mixed America tanks
Tank size:
200x80x60 = 960 liters ~ 253 gallons (us)
Specific features:
The basin is custom made ​​from 12mm thick float glass, diamond cut and glued on shock. Empty it weighs 145kg and it took 20 minutes until the 3rd floor of the cupboard stood.
On the right side, two narrow strip of glass (thickness 5mm) were glued to receive the filter mat of HMF. In support of the mat against the gravel perpendicular three 8cm high track strips of equal thickness were glued to the floor panel. Between these vertical "plates" are column so that the water can also flow through the bottom of the mat. The horizontal and vertical braces and the glass strip of HMF were glued with transparent silicone. My aesthetic sensibilities to the black adhesive seams interfere when looking directly forward.
Shields prevent unnecessary heat loss and thus the evaporation of water. In selected areas, especially for the HMF corners were cut to have or to facilitate feeding, for example, direct access to the technology.

The cabinet wuirde of pluggable elements of the Fa. AL-SO-PLA UG built. The pages I had to step up, because I was too lazy to haul the heavy pressboard sheets in the apartment. That cost me a day time loss. As documents two plywood birch serve each 18mm thick. There is installed a frame with sliding glass doors at the front and on the sides. Then it looks chic.
das musste sein
Teil 1 des Hardscapes
Teil 2 des Hardscapes
Das Hardscape ist fertig
Javafarne befestigen...
die kleinen Pflanzen sind alle gesetzt
Mit etwas mehr Wasser lassen sich die Stengelpflanzen leichter setzen.
1. Tag
8. Tag
Aquarium decoration:
Lower class:
- 2x6l ADA Power Sand M ca. 1.5cm high, combined with about 5l bottom fertilizer Aquafert Soil

Middle layer:
20l ADA Aquasoil Amazonia, 2cm high

Upper layer:
70kg gravel, dark, grain 5-8mm

The ground rises from the front (2cm) to backward (8cm) and was filled to the roots and rocks around.
- Anubias bartherii var nana, mini 'or' Bonsai '.
- Anubias nana bartherii var.
- Barclaya longifolia, red form
- Blyxa japonica - Japanese yarn herb
- Cyperus helferi - Cyprus grass
- Cryptocoryne beckettii - Becketts Wasserkelch
- Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia - Herzblatt Cryptocoryne
- Crytocoryne wendtii brown '- Brauner waterhole
- Echinodorus osiris - Echinodorus Osiris
- Glossostigma elatinoides - Australian reed
- Hemianthus callitrichoides cuba - Cuban Perlkraut
- Lomariopsis lineata - Fresh water tank
- Micranthemum umbrosum - Perlkraut
- Micranthemum micranthemoides - Petite Perlkraut
- Microsorium pteropus - Javafarn
- Microsorium pteropus, Narrow leaf '- Small Javafarn
- Microsorium pteropus, Neddle leaf '- Schmalblätteriger Javafarn
- Microsorium pteropus, Trident '- schmalblätteriger three-pointed Javafarn
- Microsorium pteropus, Windelov '- Windelovs Javafarn
- Monosolenium tenerum - Tender liverwort
- Myriophyllum elatinoides - Tännelartiges milfoil
- Nymphaea lotus, green '- Green Tiger Lotus
- Riccia fluitans - pond liverwort
- Rotala rotundifolia - Round-leaved Rotala
- Taxiphyllum sp. "Flame Moss" - Flame Moss
- Taxiphyllum sp. "Peacock Moss" - Peacock Moss
- Vesicularia dubyana - Javamoos

All information according Kasselmann.

Some pages on the net I found the following:
The Peacock Moss is also known as Taxiphyllum sp. "Spiky" - Spiky moss. The Vesicularia dubyana is also performed under the name as Taxiphyllum barbieri.

To what extent that is scientifically sound, I can not say.
Pflanzen im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Pflanzen im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Die Blyxa wächst fast schon zu schnell...
Special features of the facility:
The overall composition is designed in a Aquascapes. I have the attention focused on creating a free area left of the center of the basin, which continues to the left root with small growing plants like Bylxa japonica and the small needle ledges. With the free area greater depth effect is to be achieved. is supported the action by the individual root branches right grouping, the show primarily forward. The overall layout is to act in spite of the style used naturally.

I use to lay out three large roots, two of which are grouped on the right and is placed individually on the left side of the pelvis. All roots lie on the pelvic floor and are supported by several large stones. The stones are to protect the bottom disk to cut 1cm thick Styrofoam panels. In Baumarkt I only 2cm thick plates found - halving is somewhat tedious and crumbly. Small stones were arranged so that they "usher" in the roots. This creates, supported by the gravel, an increase which should also highlight the effect of depth. Pebbles of different sizes and color, were mainly in the central open area, "dropped", so as to cause a natural phenomenon of a river landscape in the viewer.

When planting, I have (at least with the use of mine components) opted for easy entertaining and gutwüchsige types that can be associated with the various warm habitats in the world. It is as a society aquarium aquascaping style. The roots are outstandingly for planting with moss and the various Java ferns. The Moose were connected in advance of the roots to this positioning. The ferns are attached with black cable ties (small size). The stem plants and the Cyprus grass to hide the HMF and against the dark color of the ferns and roots make a nice contrast simultaneously. The Barclaya is currently not yet be seen, but in the future, together with the Rotala, form the focal point. Both types are in the right half of the pelvis. The ground cover should overgrow a great deal of ground elements. The areas directly in front of the front and left side window and the medium backward rising area be kept in order to preserve the natural impression.
Aquarium equipment:
To use come two hanging lamps of Aqua Medic, model Ocean Light T5 8x39W. The lights are controlled by two timers.
The illumination period is 11 hours, with a lunch break of 3 hours.

Each lamp is equipped with:
- 2x daylight white light color 865
- 2x cool white, light color 840
- 2x warm white, light color 830

So that makes 234 W per lamp. About the old pool (160x60x60) I once started to attempt an adequate vegetation, added with inexpensive Chinese-made LED's to achieve and a disused hanging lamp. The result has convinced me neither of the light color (too cool despite different LEDs, cold / warm white) and the attained illuminance. The commercially available LED lights are me simply too expensive for the desired illuminance and effect. It may be that the power consumption can be reduced, but this is not as high as it is often sold. Until the lights amortize years pass. Until then, the development of the LED's will be progressed. The time is not ripe for me. If you have a recommendation, let me know.
I filter still successfully HMF (Hamburg mat filter). I found the concept and the experience just as compelling. I have been operated in the last 7 years all sinks HMF. The advantages are obvious. A long service life, low cost of ownership and easy to build yourself. Simplified I have the installation, as I have informed the Aquarium Bauer the necessary measurements when ordering the special design (see above). The mat sandwiched perfectly and forms a quarter circle in the right rear corner of the pool. The shape I can only recommend. In the old basin I had tried an asymmetrical shape to save space. I am happy therefore never become, because the mat could not be trapped as well. The mat has a thickness of 3cm and has fine pores. The average pore size I have not had good experiences, because it takes much longer to clog the pores. The maturing of tanks therefore takes longer.

the filter is powered by a Tunze "Turbelle nano stream 6015" (max. 1800l / h, 3.5W). I swear on the Tunzepumpen, even if they cost a little. They are very quiet and require very little maintenance. Aller 3-5 months, depending on apparent pollution, I rinse them under running water. That's about all the effort of filter maintenance. can leakage of filter either. The only drawback - it takes place a the pool. The reflux via a plexiglass tube (Ø 40mm) to make it less noticeable. In my old pool bothered me. Let's see how long the Plexiglas looks the way it should look. To retract the pelvis I added populated filter mats from current aquariums. The color changes so within 2 weeks from blue to dark green / gray / brown and then also no longer falls on.

- Surface 3204cm²
- Matt height 60cm
- Matt Length (bent) 54cm
- Water flow rate factor 2
Other equipment:
To use comes a CO2 system consisting of components from different manufacturers (pressure reducer, pressure gauge and control valve). CO2 reaction takes place via a diffuser which is attached below the rear flow tube on the right side of the pelvis. In a solenoid valve I do without consciously. I have already several blown away. The result was the uninterrupted CO2 was passed in the pool and me the fish were almost suffocated twice. I do not count the bubbles, but imagine the intensity by a feeling. The pH meter is relatively fast a return information, even if it is delayed.
HMF von oben
HMF Seitenansicht
Rücklauf Filter
- 8 Symphysodon aequifasciatus - discus cichlid thereof:
- 4 cobalt blue
- 2 Snake Skin Türkisrot
- 2 surface Turquoise
- 30 Paracheirodon axelrodi - red neon
- 30 Hasemania nana - silvertip
- 7 Pangio kuhlii - pangio
- 3 Ancistrus spec. - Brown Catfish
- 100+ Neocaridina heteropoda var Red -. Red Fire Shrimp
Besatz im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Besatz im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Besatz im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Besatz im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Besatz im Aquarium Am Waldrand
Water parameters:
Before I get to the water values ​​below first, some basic comments.

Since receiving the pelvic operation on 02/20/2016 I change about 20% of the water every week. The rhythm I'll change after 8 weeks to two weeks with 30% fresh water. was retracted the basin with 40% water in operation aquariums.

I fertilizing with Aqua Rebel Micro Basic iron fertilizer, about 50-75% of the amount specified 1x a week. So I'm not really satisfied (see values). I think the fertilizer very well and had made with him in the old pool excellent results in combination with CO2 and enough light. The fertilizer contains potassium, which therefore does not have to be specially added. But the tap water has been on a slightly lower than the recommended value.

NO3: 1-5 mg / l
NO2: <0.01 mg / l
Fe: varies between <0.02 mg / l (after 7 days) and 0.1 mg / l (after fertilization)
KH: 4 ° dH
GH: 6 ° dH
pH: 6.8
Temperature: 27 ° C

The temperature may be considered for the discus to be too low. The animals were reared by the breeder but at this temperature. The pictures speak for themselves, that was detrimental to animals not in their youth in its current state or harm. These water levels, the animals tend to regularly brood care, the company in the aquarium remains but fortunately unsuccessful because I simply did not know what to do with the pups. Also need the little tid lining and that is for purely logistical reasons not possible and would thus not conducive to the development.
- Dupla Rin S (for tetras)
- Dupla Rin G / Tabs (Forage for catfish)
- Live food (Artemia, Daphnia, Echnyträen)
- Frozen foods (Artemia, beef heart with garlic, bloodworm
- Residues of Pellkartoffen

Whenever possible get the animals live feed, preferably Artemia. The dry food I missed in the discus and I spoil them. The tetras and bottom fish tastes it. The discus get a mix of brine shrimp and bloodworms. On weekends there's also beef heart. I make sure not to unnecessarily pollute the water, which is why I always first ausspüle the frozen food before feeding under running water in a fine mesh. The manufacturer of the freezing chuck estimates the load compared to the nutritional value of all three types as follows:

bloodworms - low nutritional value - low water contamination
Artemia - high nutritional value - average water stress
Beef heart - high nutritional value - high water stress

Incidentally, the manufacturers of frost feed is also the breeder of my discus cichlids. The juveniles already get high-quality forage. No wonder that the animals are healthy and look great.

As with all things, go with what and how often fed the same opinion. Everyone should make his own experiences there. The favorable flake food, I think, for example, nothing.
Further information:
Currently my focus is on the aquascaping. I want beautiful aquariums create without the technical complexity unnecessarily drive up. This saves one hand money to purchase and on the other hand in the conversation. The Aquascapes I try the beauty of nature to recreate. Perfection is not a priority because something perfect, there is not, I think, and even if so, it has no charm for me. Only the nature remains unsurpassed.

I'm still consider whether I will not yet buy myself an automatic fertilization. This inevitably alters the stability of the pelvis as the plants no longer then stagnate in growth due to a lack Nähstoffe briefly.

The idea of ​​a separate and naturally large Malawi as Catfish Basin excites me a long time. For this, I first need space. This will take a little longer. A biotope aquarium can hardly be surpassed in naturalness in its original form. This is even. I have been a few ideas.