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Stand 22.01.12
Description of the aquarium:
Tank size:
40x28x25 = 28 liters ~ 7 gallons (us)
Specific features:
The basin is a transparent sticky Maßanfertigung
The lighting design is brand Eingenbau with available hardware store aluminum profiles, plastic joints, steel angles, an old Dennerle reflector, simple G23 sockets and two CCG which, behind the pool protected by a plastic cover, is mounted on the sub-board. The construction is held by pop rivets. Supply incl. Switches were reused from an old bedside lamp. Cost point of all components incl. Bulbs is around 50-60 € and a few hours work.
Stand 14.11.11
Stand 17.09.11
Aquarium Einst war das Chaos
Aquarium Einst war das Chaos
Aquarium Einst war das Chaos
Aquarium Einst war das Chaos
Stand 22.01.12
Stand 22.01.12
Aquarium decoration:
ADA Amazonia II Soil
ADA Nile Sand
Tetra Complete Substrate
Hydrocotyle tripartita
Utricularia graminifolia
Elatine hydropiper
Riccardia chamedryfolia
Fontinalis antipyretica
Bolbitis heteroclita `Difformis`
Special features of the facility:
Seiryu Stones
Moor Wood
Holestone (fragments)

Note: Seiryu Stones and holestone harden the water on strongly. Since soft water is required for a pleasant vegetation and for the prevention of other inconveniences, regular water changes are essential (min. 1 times a week).
Step 1: Hardscape anordnen und fixieren
Step 2:Hauptbodengrund aufschütten, Steigung gestalten
Step 3: Zweitbodengrund aufschütten
Step 4: Bepflanzung setzen
Holz kam erst später dazu
Aquarium equipment:
DIY lamp 2x9W G23 tubes 5400K for continuous 9 hours / day
The lights are powered by a KVG, an ECG would have preferred.
Small outer filter with about 300l / h. Equipped with the filter is only filter sponge. The filter inlet and filter outlet are homegrown from 10mm acrylic glass tube.

The majority of the filtering is about plants, stones and rocks.
Other equipment:
500g bottle pressure gas CO2 with overnight shutdown, CO2 introduced via Atomizer
CO2 continuous test
7W heater
Beleuchtung Selbstbau
Besatz im Aquarium Einst war das Chaos
Clithon spec.
Blaue Posthornschnecke
Water parameters:
Temp 21-22 ° C.; PH ≤7; KH 6; GH 11; NO2 0.0; NO3 15-20; PO4 0.2-0.4; Fe 0.1

Daily fertilization with AR and AR EI special N, EL ProVito, every other day AR Macro Basic phosphate. Magnesium fertilization over dissolved in distilled water Epsom salt.

Water 1 time a week to 60%

The basin is fertilized by the "EI" principle. This fertilization method works beautifully, the plants grow healthy and strong colors, the algae is extraordinarily low. Here a little explanation.

The EI was developed by Tom Barr (http://www.barrreport.com) and makes it possible to bring all the needed nutrients in his planted aquarium. Tom Barr himself studied biology with emphasis on aquatic plants and a doctorate in this field. He works at a college in the US and aims in the near future, a professor in this field, therefore it can be assumed that his findings have hand and foot.
By regularly adding sufficient nutrients occur no deficiency symptoms and concomitant with regular water changes to prevent a strong concentration of nutrients, which can lead to blockages of other nutrients. Since the EI is a method in which the amount of needed nutrients of the aquarium, it is estimated you do not need water tests. This estimate is based on tests by Tom Barr, in which he analyzed the nutrient consumption of many plants and accordingly its plants provides the sufficient amount of nutrients.

Plants consume per 24 hours at high light output ca:

NO3 -> 1-4 mg / l
NH4 -> 0.1-0.6 mg / l (Although one should not dispense ammonium because it triggers algae)
PO4 -> 0.2-0.6 mg / l

Here one should bear in mind that the plant would have at a lower dosage no deficiency symptoms however. But also a higher dose than the consumption assumed daily, no growth increase induces.
By adding the needed nutrients throughout the week prevented it from deficiency symptoms and allows the plants to grow well and thereby minimize the growth of algae.

Tom Barr's most important assumption in the development of this method was the knowledge that high amounts of nutrients cause any algae. Many authors are sticking to this error to have explicitly demonstrated in any case in aquariums with a healthy plant growth. Accordingly, high nitrate, phosphate and iron levels do not trigger algae and this error must finally disappear from the minds of people. It is not right to compare water from nature with aquariums and to derive his conclusions for the fertilizer addition.
The only substance that leads to the growth of algae, is ammonium (NH4 +), this can be responsible even to a small extent for algae outbreak. NO3 dosed in the form of KNO3 can therefore not lead to algae growth, however rich, according to Tom Barr even the smallest quantities of ammonium (eg 1/20 of the supplied amount NO3) to force a strong algae growth.
The nutrients nitrate, phosphate, potassium and iron can therefore be present in high quantities, but ammonium and urea lead already in very low dosages to algae.

The EI tried therefore to bring a week enough nutrients in the aquarium, to prevent algae growth and ensure healthy growth of plants. A water change of 50% is then carried out so that the concentration of nutrients not on hand and takes the water is returned to a lower level of nutrients once a week. So you can start with its rich fertilizing again.

The main nutrients that are required are dosed the macronutrients nitrate, phosphate and potassium as well as micronutrients, including iron.

The EI is designed for pools with high light output of at least 1 Watt per liter, CO2 supply and a good planting. In pools with less light and perhaps no CO2 supply the dosage needs to be adjusted or reduced, and can be, for example, also fed only once a week.
In addition, other variables such as very high nitrate and phosphate levels in the [...]
Everything is so ... as fine flake food, Garnelentabs, boiled vegetables and salad, attached algae, almond leaves.
Further information:
The stones have been built on a "styrofoam skeleton", the larger cavities were coarse Lavabruch with a grain size of 6 - 12mm padded. On the Lavabruch the actual ground was given (See also photos "Step1" to "Step4" under the category "Decoration").

Since my goal is to achieve the greatest possible spatial effect in this small pool, all equipment has been removed from the pool for the photos, just looks better that way. The equipment would make the proportions of the layout with a view to naught, as you can see "art" well on the "photographic evidence" in the division. It should not come to the mistaken belief that I would operate the pool techniklos which would indeed be extremely tricky. ;)