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Description of the aquarium:
Asia / Australia
Tank size:
120×40×50 = 240 liters ~ 63 gallons (us)
Specific features:
Juwel Rio 240 (frame Aquarium) in Beech

The pool has been running since the beginning of March 2015th
It will be my first attempt to bring a little aquascaping aesthetics in a primarily tailored to its residents biotope pool.
Kurz nach dem Einsetzen
Aquarium decoration:
Foreground: sand with some places natural gravel 5-8 mm

Background: Natural gravel 1-2mm

I have intentionally omitted Depot soil, because I have learned that it can easily begin to rot in conjunction with sand.
Up to two artistic liberties (the Tiger Lotus and Ludwigia) all plants come from Asia.

Vallisneria spiralis
Nymphea lotus rubra (driving tuber)
Hygrophila difformis
Hygrophila corymbosa stricta
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Red Ludwigia

Blyxa japonica
Eleocharia parvula
Aegagrophila linnaei
Microsorum pteropus
Java moss

Fertilization: Bio-CO2, Dennerle E15 FerActiv, Amtra laterite FertilizerBalls. The rest should cover the quite ordinary metabolism of my fish.
Special features of the facility:
2x Jewel Cliff Dark A Terrace

1x Jewel Cliff skirt Terrace B

2 Mekong roots (even with Java fern and moss planted)

4 Coconut caves

3 stones "gray panther" (Hornbach)

A beautiful back sheet still follows.
Aquarium equipment:
Currently yet the standard T5 High-Lite 2x54 Watt

Lighting time: 12-22 Clock

The highlight bar is replaced by an LED, since the T5 temperature with the cover closed much too high drive (about 25 degrees at 21 degrees room temperature).
A test with a Eheim Power LED has shown that it works much better, but I do not get it properly centered under my jewel cover integrated and the light color is not like it so completely.
The time now is a Daytime cluster 120 are with a suitable adapter, which is then also dimmable.

Planned are 4-6 Cluster A 10 Watt:
2-4x ultra white (7000 Kelvin)
2x neutral white (5000 Kelvin)
Jewel Bioflow 3.0 (glued corner internal filter) with jewel Eccoflow 600 liter pump.
The integrated heating element I have taken out and instead housed more filter foam.
Other equipment:
Eheim Powerhead 650 as additional flow pump.

A self Advanced Dennerle Bio-CO2 system:
2 Dennerle Bio-CO2 starter kits + 2 additional large Dennerle CO2 Topper, I have pierced and glued with aquarium silicone.
Since I have tinkered with the additional toppers an extended groove which method works surprisingly well.

I deliberately decided for safety reasons to pressure gas, as I often am not at home during the day and the compressed gas confront something suspicious.
10 cardinal fish (Tanichthys albonubes), the most likely multiply even on its own

15 Brocade Barben (Barbodes semifasciolatus, incl. Juveniles)

4 Panda Saugbarben (Garra flavatra)

Part of brocade Barben and Garras still come from a dissolved company's pool, which I had previously about 4 years.

In addition, there are a handful of small permanent tower snails unknown type in the basin that I was given and serve the loosening of the sandy soil.

These soon to come:

6 fin sucker (Pseudogastromyzon cheni)

Currently located on a transitional basis even a single angejahrtes Spritzsalmler males from a pelvic resolution in the aquarium, which I will leave again as soon as I have found a more suitable home for it.
Die ausgewachsenen Brokatbarben (ca. 4 Jahre alt)
3 meiner Panda-Saugbarben (Garra flavatra)
Water parameters:

NO2: 0
NO3: ~ 10
KH: 5 ° dH
GH: 8 ° dH
pH: ca. 7.0
CO2: 20 (varies slightly throughout the day)

CO2 I measure the endurance test of JBL (only with finished indicator!);
Kh, Gh and pH tests with drops of JBL.

Temperature: about 23 ° C. unheated, heated only by lighting

Water changes: 1x per week 80 L (35-40%) with aufgehärtetem tap water.

I cured it with JBL Aquadur on KH 5, since it only with KH 2 from the line comes (to protect the pipes from the waterworks at pH 7.5 and sprouted CO2).

At the same time I lower by careful CO2 fertilization the pH to 6.8 to 7.0, which uses multiple Dennerle CO2 Topper now works quite well as Paffrathsche gutter.

What concerns the remaining values ​​(NO2, NO3, ammonium, etc.) I've decided that I can save just as my Testerei. The aquarium is now well run and I do regular water changes.
If the fish depending nevertheless show around shooting or gasping for air signs of intoxication, I'll either way first change 80% water and Tetra AquaSafe admit; then aerate and put some of those filled with zeolite artificial "moss balls" into the pool.
That should help as an emergency measure for all eventualities and if it does not get better, I can still leave test in the next pet store.
1x per week Changing frozen food:
Red and white mosquito larvae, Artemia, Daphnia

1x per week Forage:
a piece of peeled and überbrühtes vegetables

1x fasting (Wednesday)

Otherwise there are various dried fodder:
Flakes: Dennerle Complete Flakes, Organix Power Flakes
Tablets: Söll Organix Super Kelp Tabs

And occasionally a little Hakito gammarus freeze dried shrimps to nibble.

I'm still a rain barrel up to breed in live food.
Further information:
The fish I choose because I really liked (even if they bring me the decoration only too happy mess) their playful behavior and the color scheme

All inhabit subtropical streams and rivers with mild to strong currents and soft slightly acidic to neutral water.

Except for the Garra flavatra originate all types of Hong Kong. The Garras I already had and because I like very much, they get the right to stay. ;-)