Description of the aquarium:
Category:
Tank size:
100 x 50 x 70 = 350 liters ~ 92 gallons (us)
Specific features:
From aquariums Bauer incl. Cover. 12mm float glass, bulge-black with safety inseam.
Rear Right there is a overflow shaft with two compartments and removable comb.
The windscreen made of white glass has a rather rare side ratio of 100cm x70cm.
That's a fairly short edge length, but the niche in the AQ is unfortunately no longer permitted. The 70 for the height were mainly an aesthetic choice, but the volume of water should ultimately more fish to come good (even if there is a larger footprint would probably make more sense).
The High disk looks like I find less of stocky, what is good in this case because the tank is in a corner of the room. Also, I now have a beautiful, large viewing surface, in spite of only 100cm edge length.
Cabinet homegrown from 21mm plywood, with air conditioning for the filter chamber.
Rear Right there is a overflow shaft with two compartments and removable comb.
The windscreen made of white glass has a rather rare side ratio of 100cm x70cm.
That's a fairly short edge length, but the niche in the AQ is unfortunately no longer permitted. The 70 for the height were mainly an aesthetic choice, but the volume of water should ultimately more fish to come good (even if there is a larger footprint would probably make more sense).
The High disk looks like I find less of stocky, what is good in this case because the tank is in a corner of the room. Also, I now have a beautiful, large viewing surface, in spite of only 100cm edge length.
Cabinet homegrown from 21mm plywood, with air conditioning for the filter chamber.
Aquarium decoration:
Gravel:
Mixture of white and black sand grain size aquariums from 0.2 to 0.8 mm (small grain so can scratch the perch to the gills) about 14 kg. Relation to feelings, I think about 1 to 4. Totaly so a dark gray to obtain a not too highly reflective surface.
The sand layer is about 5 cm high, so the fish can dig properly.
Have the sand, which I use in's AQ, washed just like everything else thoroughly several times.
,
The sand layer is about 5 cm high, so the fish can dig properly.
Have the sand, which I use in's AQ, washed just like everything else thoroughly several times.
,
Plants:
I try in this AQ rocks zone imitate in Lake Malawi, which is why I of course largely renounce plants.
Nevertheless algae are on the the "rocks" are welcome! I find that just belong to Malawi basin, especially since it's in the lake as well, and also because I care Aufwuchsfressser. In addition, I also like the design aspect. Since I can hardly influence the self I'm curious how it evolved over time.
Marimo (Cladophora Aegagropila)
isolated stuck on modules. I especially purely for the initial phase, because I still do not have algae. I do not know whether to stay in it, but somehow I found that it does the optics / Atmosphere good, even if they do not actually occur in the lake. In principle, these are also only algae, so regrowth. However, one is not eaten.
Nevertheless algae are on the the "rocks" are welcome! I find that just belong to Malawi basin, especially since it's in the lake as well, and also because I care Aufwuchsfressser. In addition, I also like the design aspect. Since I can hardly influence the self I'm curious how it evolved over time.
Marimo (Cladophora Aegagropila)
isolated stuck on modules. I especially purely for the initial phase, because I still do not have algae. I do not know whether to stay in it, but somehow I found that it does the optics / Atmosphere good, even if they do not actually occur in the lake. In principle, these are also only algae, so regrowth. However, one is not eaten.
Special features of the facility:
Self-built 3D back wall which extends up to 35 cm to the front window and forming numerous caves and crevices. Simulates stone constructions to the water surface.
There are, of course, to buy very nice, but they are both very expensive and too often obstructed (beautifully designed in part aquariums). But for my AQ, I wanted something "special" and besides, I had really desired to build the thing.
Had several designs made, then was able to really say goodbye to any idea and now it has become optically flat so ne kind of mixture of rock wall and piles of rubble. From the surface effect it acts a bit like dark basalt quarry. The wall is hollowed largely from behind hinterschwimmbar. Here, the module depth is beneficial for the fish, as well as behind relatively large free swimming space is created, which can be, however, not be seen from outside (unless you open the cover and looks from above in). I have the whole thing so designed that if water is drained, the fish are forced to swim in the front of the aquarium, while there is no risk that fish to lie in any puddles. The "base area" is not hinterschwimmbar. So when I desist water until then there are all the fish in front of the wall. This I did better in an emergency "access" to the inhabitants without taking equal the entire Deko apart (15kg stone I have to Allerding still remove), because due to the very sculptural design of the front to be negative on the back also yield numerous Caves that I can however difficult to control. Although I'll be everywhere with my hands back, but individual fish will rauszufangen with the landing net behind the rear wall probably difficult. At least not without a lot of stress for me and the animals. Therefore, it seemed reasonable to me to build the whole thing like so that I do not get problems later.
The back is just plain dark gray. Since this area is indeed intended primarily as a retreat for the fish I have chosen this one weakly reflective paint and adjusted the lighting by shading and positioning of the light beam.
Would be to say that the space is divided behind the rear wall of the overflow shaft into two unconnected areas. These have always distributed several additions over the entire height, ie the fish do not have to get out where they came in, but move through so ne kind of cave system, where it is still isolated caves.
As materials more or less classic EPS, Flowing glue, acrylic paint, epoxy resin and sand were used. When sand I have the same as used for the ground, to get a color approximation. Have been paid attention that is sealed around completely, but the wall was turned on at a flow pump + heater watered about possible pollutants wash 2 weeks.
The wall I have adhered to the AQ-walls and a plexiglass plate which also serves to protect the bottom disk. It is then the sand so that the buoyancy is reduced. Vorm installation I had to divide the rear wall. The fugue, I then with AQ Silkon, in which I have strewn sand, closed.
Centered in the foreground is another great
self-built module, which is also being eroded. It is about 32 cm high and divides the basin, which should mark next to the optical effect even grounds. Between the rear wall and the module I have placed a few cavities separate stones. Otherwise, only a cave system would have arisen here. But I wanted later in the packed Aquarium also each fish can find a private retreat area. The module was washed together with the rear wall.
I had planned from the beginning with massive stone constructions, which has also led to the decision to choose the 70cm basin height. Now I have about the "rock" in the foreground still min 35 cm free swimming space.
Approximately 15 kg natural stones of various sizes complete the furnishings.
Since I'm going to not like about replacing them in the long term through which that better fit the artificial rock.
As the [...]
There are, of course, to buy very nice, but they are both very expensive and too often obstructed (beautifully designed in part aquariums). But for my AQ, I wanted something "special" and besides, I had really desired to build the thing.
Had several designs made, then was able to really say goodbye to any idea and now it has become optically flat so ne kind of mixture of rock wall and piles of rubble. From the surface effect it acts a bit like dark basalt quarry. The wall is hollowed largely from behind hinterschwimmbar. Here, the module depth is beneficial for the fish, as well as behind relatively large free swimming space is created, which can be, however, not be seen from outside (unless you open the cover and looks from above in). I have the whole thing so designed that if water is drained, the fish are forced to swim in the front of the aquarium, while there is no risk that fish to lie in any puddles. The "base area" is not hinterschwimmbar. So when I desist water until then there are all the fish in front of the wall. This I did better in an emergency "access" to the inhabitants without taking equal the entire Deko apart (15kg stone I have to Allerding still remove), because due to the very sculptural design of the front to be negative on the back also yield numerous Caves that I can however difficult to control. Although I'll be everywhere with my hands back, but individual fish will rauszufangen with the landing net behind the rear wall probably difficult. At least not without a lot of stress for me and the animals. Therefore, it seemed reasonable to me to build the whole thing like so that I do not get problems later.
The back is just plain dark gray. Since this area is indeed intended primarily as a retreat for the fish I have chosen this one weakly reflective paint and adjusted the lighting by shading and positioning of the light beam.
Would be to say that the space is divided behind the rear wall of the overflow shaft into two unconnected areas. These have always distributed several additions over the entire height, ie the fish do not have to get out where they came in, but move through so ne kind of cave system, where it is still isolated caves.
As materials more or less classic EPS, Flowing glue, acrylic paint, epoxy resin and sand were used. When sand I have the same as used for the ground, to get a color approximation. Have been paid attention that is sealed around completely, but the wall was turned on at a flow pump + heater watered about possible pollutants wash 2 weeks.
The wall I have adhered to the AQ-walls and a plexiglass plate which also serves to protect the bottom disk. It is then the sand so that the buoyancy is reduced. Vorm installation I had to divide the rear wall. The fugue, I then with AQ Silkon, in which I have strewn sand, closed.
Centered in the foreground is another great
self-built module, which is also being eroded. It is about 32 cm high and divides the basin, which should mark next to the optical effect even grounds. Between the rear wall and the module I have placed a few cavities separate stones. Otherwise, only a cave system would have arisen here. But I wanted later in the packed Aquarium also each fish can find a private retreat area. The module was washed together with the rear wall.
I had planned from the beginning with massive stone constructions, which has also led to the decision to choose the 70cm basin height. Now I have about the "rock" in the foreground still min 35 cm free swimming space.
Approximately 15 kg natural stones of various sizes complete the furnishings.
Since I'm going to not like about replacing them in the long term through which that better fit the artificial rock.
As the [...]
Aquarium equipment:
Lighting:
1 X LumLight Aqua Styl Light RGB 825mm 20W to 1800 lm
even programiert with daylight simulator.
Since I'm trying to rock zone was to simulate in a water depth of 5 to 20 m clear that the lighting must be strong dimmed and I need also shaded areas (which I managed through the establishment of the rear wall with overhangs). Since red light is already absorbed here I've tried it largely to dispense, and worked mainly with blue and green.
Rough outline of the daily routine:
Transition from very faint moonlight in a slow sunrise 7:00 to 8:00. After that, the light intensity increases minimal until about 13:00 the peak will be reached, but it remains nice dim. From 16:00, the brightness increases again slowly. At 19.00 h uses a 1 hour sunset with some red part, which merges into a light, bluish moonlight. At the beginning of the moonlight phase, it is still a bit lighter (so I late at night even a little something to look hab) but is steadily decreasing, between 2:00 and 4:00, the lights will switch off completely.
In many device examples that also use RGB LEDs, the colors eg extremely red sunsets or too blue moonlight, pink light etc. are chosen too intense for my taste, clear there in nature again and again magnificent Fabspektakel and somehow that's as long as the inhabitants goes well, a matter of taste. I want to get in there to talk anyone, but in some aquariums siehts as at the disco. I wanted to avoid, and have therefore found me the programmable controller. The LED strip is still from my previous AQ. At that time I have operated with a preprogrammed Tageslichtsimulater, processes and colors (which are the same as just mentioned) but I have never really liked.
Since the bar is anyway greatly dimmed and has large, projecting rock modules I have shade large areas, although originally planned to do without the trick with the aluminum foil.
The theme has not yet been checked for me, I'll gradually try the lighting situation to optimize. I've already ordered color films to the greens to intesivieren something. Blue, the bar was very good (also red), but Green is not their strength.
,
even programiert with daylight simulator.
Since I'm trying to rock zone was to simulate in a water depth of 5 to 20 m clear that the lighting must be strong dimmed and I need also shaded areas (which I managed through the establishment of the rear wall with overhangs). Since red light is already absorbed here I've tried it largely to dispense, and worked mainly with blue and green.
Rough outline of the daily routine:
Transition from very faint moonlight in a slow sunrise 7:00 to 8:00. After that, the light intensity increases minimal until about 13:00 the peak will be reached, but it remains nice dim. From 16:00, the brightness increases again slowly. At 19.00 h uses a 1 hour sunset with some red part, which merges into a light, bluish moonlight. At the beginning of the moonlight phase, it is still a bit lighter (so I late at night even a little something to look hab) but is steadily decreasing, between 2:00 and 4:00, the lights will switch off completely.
In many device examples that also use RGB LEDs, the colors eg extremely red sunsets or too blue moonlight, pink light etc. are chosen too intense for my taste, clear there in nature again and again magnificent Fabspektakel and somehow that's as long as the inhabitants goes well, a matter of taste. I want to get in there to talk anyone, but in some aquariums siehts as at the disco. I wanted to avoid, and have therefore found me the programmable controller. The LED strip is still from my previous AQ. At that time I have operated with a preprogrammed Tageslichtsimulater, processes and colors (which are the same as just mentioned) but I have never really liked.
Since the bar is anyway greatly dimmed and has large, projecting rock modules I have shade large areas, although originally planned to do without the trick with the aluminum foil.
The theme has not yet been checked for me, I'll gradually try the lighting situation to optimize. I've already ordered color films to the greens to intesivieren something. Blue, the bar was very good (also red), but Green is not their strength.
,
Filtration:
In the cabinet there is a self-made 60l filter tank, which works on the principle of the Hamburg mat filter. Building I have copied in a aquarium Bauer and the calculations to the on hunting without secrets made searchable formulas. As filter media serve me Blue filter mats coarse and fine, as well as some Filterwatte against airborne particles. The latter is now and then cleaned / replaced, the mats remain naturally untouched. Another chamber is filled with 4 l Siporax and about 3l Eheim Pro substrate.
The water passes via an overflow slot into the filter. This has, thanks to a second chamber via an intake just above the ground, which is aspirated from surface and ground simultaneously. Moreover, in the shaft a rough filter mat is still used, which serves as a pre-filter and is purified by from time to time to keep constant the outflow speed. Should this but once clogged, there are still a emergency drain.
Since the shutdown of the pump (eg power failure) about 2cm from the surface and the water in the pipes drain to the bottom of this has volume as a reserve in the filter to be present. In my case, the max 15L, the actual filter volume corresponds 40l, ie 11.4% of gross pelvic contents. After my research should be more than enough, please correct me if not. Then I can still make an external filter to.
In conjunction with the one near the top-mounted vents the overflow also provides for a good moving water surface, but can not replace Stömungspumpe.
The filter I have equipped with two return pumps.
1x EHEIM compact + 2000 adjusted to 1300 l / h
send water to an outlet on the top right behind the rear wall.
1x EHEIM compact regulated 1000. ca 350 l / h
This directs the water only Duch a UV clarifier and then hidden to an outlet at the bottom left at the front of the rock module, whereby the cavities are rinsed under the stone constructions, which seems to work very well (had tests made with granulated feed).
This pump hanging on a circuit different from the first, which has its own GFCI. Was not originally planned but it has offered since the outlet was already available in the immediate vicinity. Now I have time if the fuse blows, at least not an emergency filtration of 350l / h.
Both pumps together flush approximately four to five times the tank volume per hour through the filter. Here I follow the recommendation on malawi-guru.de .
The positioning of the water inlet and outlets I have tried to ensure that the final crack is flushed in the aquarium, and the flow pump helps.
,
The water passes via an overflow slot into the filter. This has, thanks to a second chamber via an intake just above the ground, which is aspirated from surface and ground simultaneously. Moreover, in the shaft a rough filter mat is still used, which serves as a pre-filter and is purified by from time to time to keep constant the outflow speed. Should this but once clogged, there are still a emergency drain.
Since the shutdown of the pump (eg power failure) about 2cm from the surface and the water in the pipes drain to the bottom of this has volume as a reserve in the filter to be present. In my case, the max 15L, the actual filter volume corresponds 40l, ie 11.4% of gross pelvic contents. After my research should be more than enough, please correct me if not. Then I can still make an external filter to.
In conjunction with the one near the top-mounted vents the overflow also provides for a good moving water surface, but can not replace Stömungspumpe.
The filter I have equipped with two return pumps.
1x EHEIM compact + 2000 adjusted to 1300 l / h
send water to an outlet on the top right behind the rear wall.
1x EHEIM compact regulated 1000. ca 350 l / h
This directs the water only Duch a UV clarifier and then hidden to an outlet at the bottom left at the front of the rock module, whereby the cavities are rinsed under the stone constructions, which seems to work very well (had tests made with granulated feed).
This pump hanging on a circuit different from the first, which has its own GFCI. Was not originally planned but it has offered since the outlet was already available in the immediate vicinity. Now I have time if the fuse blows, at least not an emergency filtration of 350l / h.
Both pumps together flush approximately four to five times the tank volume per hour through the filter. Here I follow the recommendation on malawi-guru.de .
The positioning of the water inlet and outlets I have tried to ensure that the final crack is flushed in the aquarium, and the flow pump helps.
,
Other equipment:
1 x UV clarifier EHEIM reeflexUV 800 11W
designed for pools of 400l to 800l.
As the water not allowed to flow rapidly through the clarifier I decided to operate it on an extra pump. Had the small yet ancient of my pelvis left, otherwise I would have added a bypass. The pump is as mentioned above set at 350 l / h. According to the manufacturer, the flow should be in the clarifier 800 l / h not exceed. So I think I move in the safe area, but I am grateful for suggestions for improvement (for people with UV clarifiers experience!), As I nor dispose in the area do not have experience.
1x flow pump Turbelle Nano Stream to the water surface to keep 6045 (for pH and oxygen) and the cichlids in motion.
Flow capacity: 1,500 to about 4.500l / h
Energy Consumption: 5 - 7W
controlled by timer, to save some energy and the bass from time to time to enjoy a break. Runs every hour in 4.
The filter is still a refill with private 5 l tank connected. This, I think the water level constant in the filter tank, which would indeed decrease over time due to evaporation, which in turn filter performance would decrease. The water level in the aquarium's overflow shaft thanks anyway constant.
1x Aqua Medic Titanium heater. 200W
Located in the clear water chamber from the filter tank. Off in the summer.
controlled by:
Trixie Thermostat digital
This system monitors and controls the temperature via connected heater / cooler.
The device has three slots (only 2 of them for temperature control) with integrated switches.
At the moment the heater (night shutdown 18:00 to 8:00) and the flow pump is connected. If it gets too hot in the summer so I could still be close fans for cooling, but let's see if I have the need at all.
1x digital thermometer probe measures in the aquarium
1x device for hassle-free water changes
Did I even built for the water exchange in the cabinet even a rooster. Just insert the hose with clutch, turn on, wait. About the same system is also filled. Is Abgsaugt / Built in the 2nd Chamber of the overflow shaft, so you have not to worry if I wegspüle the Deko me.
1x Adwa continuous pH meter Eco 209
Certainly enough for the run-in phase usually weekly measurement via droplets test, the other values I have to anyway determined in this way. But since I am a relative novice hunting, I have no experience with my new filter basin, Malawi cichlids, AQ without Planzen etc. seemed permanent measure this important water value as meaningful.
Is measured in the clear water chamber in the filter tank.
1x water cooling for LED strip
betieben through bypass from the main supply.
designed for pools of 400l to 800l.
As the water not allowed to flow rapidly through the clarifier I decided to operate it on an extra pump. Had the small yet ancient of my pelvis left, otherwise I would have added a bypass. The pump is as mentioned above set at 350 l / h. According to the manufacturer, the flow should be in the clarifier 800 l / h not exceed. So I think I move in the safe area, but I am grateful for suggestions for improvement (for people with UV clarifiers experience!), As I nor dispose in the area do not have experience.
1x flow pump Turbelle Nano Stream to the water surface to keep 6045 (for pH and oxygen) and the cichlids in motion.
Flow capacity: 1,500 to about 4.500l / h
Energy Consumption: 5 - 7W
controlled by timer, to save some energy and the bass from time to time to enjoy a break. Runs every hour in 4.
The filter is still a refill with private 5 l tank connected. This, I think the water level constant in the filter tank, which would indeed decrease over time due to evaporation, which in turn filter performance would decrease. The water level in the aquarium's overflow shaft thanks anyway constant.
1x Aqua Medic Titanium heater. 200W
Located in the clear water chamber from the filter tank. Off in the summer.
controlled by:
Trixie Thermostat digital
This system monitors and controls the temperature via connected heater / cooler.
The device has three slots (only 2 of them for temperature control) with integrated switches.
At the moment the heater (night shutdown 18:00 to 8:00) and the flow pump is connected. If it gets too hot in the summer so I could still be close fans for cooling, but let's see if I have the need at all.
1x digital thermometer probe measures in the aquarium
1x device for hassle-free water changes
Did I even built for the water exchange in the cabinet even a rooster. Just insert the hose with clutch, turn on, wait. About the same system is also filled. Is Abgsaugt / Built in the 2nd Chamber of the overflow shaft, so you have not to worry if I wegspüle the Deko me.
1x Adwa continuous pH meter Eco 209
Certainly enough for the run-in phase usually weekly measurement via droplets test, the other values I have to anyway determined in this way. But since I am a relative novice hunting, I have no experience with my new filter basin, Malawi cichlids, AQ without Planzen etc. seemed permanent measure this important water value as meaningful.
Is measured in the clear water chamber in the filter tank.
1x water cooling for LED strip
betieben through bypass from the main supply.
Stocking:
Pseudotropheus saulosi species pool, 3/7
Since this type is very popular and therefore all information on the internet are discoverable I refrain for the time being, a detailed description. About the behavior of my group and my pesöhnlichen experience I will gradually report.
Decided I have because of this type for several reasons, mainly:
- I find the fish very nice
- The animals with 8-9cm remain relatively small
- The species can be successfully geflegt already in the pelvis (if species pool)
- The yellow of the female forms a great contrast to my rocky landscape and the blue coloration of the males even more color in my aquarium.
Since this type is very popular and therefore all information on the internet are discoverable I refrain for the time being, a detailed description. About the behavior of my group and my pesöhnlichen experience I will gradually report.
Decided I have because of this type for several reasons, mainly:
- I find the fish very nice
- The animals with 8-9cm remain relatively small
- The species can be successfully geflegt already in the pelvis (if species pool)
- The yellow of the female forms a great contrast to my rocky landscape and the blue coloration of the males even more color in my aquarium.
Water parameters:
Temperature is 24 - 26 ° C (night-day)
PH value: 8.1
GH value: 14
KH value: 9
NO2 value: 0.00
NO3: 0,00
NH4 value: 0.00
NH4 value: 0.00
Weekly partial water changes of 50% of the net contents.
Values are checked weekly before the water change.
I measure with droplet (for fine determination) and chopsticks tests (as a rapid test) from Sera.
PH value: 8.1
GH value: 14
KH value: 9
NO2 value: 0.00
NO3: 0,00
NH4 value: 0.00
NH4 value: 0.00
Weekly partial water changes of 50% of the net contents.
Values are checked weekly before the water change.
I measure with droplet (for fine determination) and chopsticks tests (as a rapid test) from Sera.
Feeding:
Since the fish are only fed and I have previously maintained any Mbunas I'll experiment with the Speißeplan yet. It is planned that I use Spirulina as a staple food and bring through fresh food variety to the program.
Fresh
Cucumber, peppers, lettuce, zucchini
Frost
Homemade frozen food on spinach / peas base, because these are vegetables that I have rarely fresh in the kitchen. So I can again bring a bit of variety in the diet, but is used mainly as a substitute if I have no suitable fresh food in the house.
Dry
SAK spirulina granules
JBL Spirulina flakes
JBL Novo Malawi flakes
Lined unregelmäsig is at max. 5-6 days a week.
Fresh
Cucumber, peppers, lettuce, zucchini
Frost
Homemade frozen food on spinach / peas base, because these are vegetables that I have rarely fresh in the kitchen. So I can again bring a bit of variety in the diet, but is used mainly as a substitute if I have no suitable fresh food in the house.
Dry
SAK spirulina granules
JBL Spirulina flakes
JBL Novo Malawi flakes
Lined unregelmäsig is at max. 5-6 days a week.
Further information:
This is only my second aquarium and especially my first Malawi-tank, have so very little experience. The first time, I have also done some wrong. This time it should run better, therefore am grateful for suggestions and improvements of every kind, that's why I'm here.
In preparation for this project has very broad this site helped me, among other things, therefore, to the operators and users with many good examples Thank you. Also malawi-guru.de was a great help, great praise and thanks also in this direction.
In preparation for this project has very broad this site helped me, among other things, therefore, to the operators and users with many good examples Thank you. Also malawi-guru.de was a great help, great praise and thanks also in this direction.